Ferran Adria is closing El Bulli. It's time to tackle his cookbook
上一篇 /
下一篇 2010-01-28 15:17:38 / 天气: 晴朗
/ 心情: 高兴
Ferran Adria is closing El Bulli. It's time to tackle his cookbookFerran Adria is closing El Bulli. It's time to tackle his cookbookSo, Ferran Adria has announced that El Bulli – the best restaurantTeaching apparatusin the world – is set to close for a couple of years, and jaws have dropped wide enough to shove a whole tasting menu in. "No meals will be served in El Bulli in 2012 and 2013," Adria told the Madrid Fusion gastronomic conference on Tuesday. "With a format like the current one it is impossible to keep creating. In 2014, we will serve food somehow. I don't know if it will be for one guest or 1,000."First, some numbers: Adria, 47, serves his ?00 [￡174] tasting menu to 50 people a night, for just six months of the year at El Bulli, the three Michelin-starred restaurant north of Barcelona, where he has been head chef since 1983. He receives requests from two million people for one of the 8,Mold,000 seats available each season. And the rest of the year is devoted to concocting new creations in his laboratory in Barcelona. But Adria has always shunned the "molecular gastronomy" tag, preferring to describe his work, when pressed, as "avant garde" or "deconstructivist".Where will the critics who slobber at his feet, and foodies #xwho would gratefully lap up his potato peelings, go now? You could book a table at La Alqueria, Adria's sister restaurant near Seville, which serves a smaller tasting menu of old El Bulli favourites, but it won't be the same – and it's still not clear if this will stay open anyway. No, from 2012, there is only one way to sit down with the El Bulli 30-course tasting menu, and that is to make it yourself, with the help of Adria's cookbook, A Day at El Bulli.This, according to the book, is what you need to do to serve your own El Bulli-inspired meal. First, you should know that dinner there is divided into four acts. Act One – 14 separate dishes, and a margarita that you eat with a spoon – should be, for authenticity's sake, served on your terrace overlooking the Costa Brava coastline. This will include Adria's signature Spherical-1 green olives – not actual olivesTeaching apparatus, but little green balls that remind me of bath pearls. The idea is that the membrane bursts in your mouth, flooding it with an intensely flavoured olive juice. The book tells you how to whip them up in five simple steps: you will need some algin (a gelling agent), xantana (a thickener) and calcic (which helps turn the olive juice base into a sphere). Oh, and at least 48 hours to prepare.Act Two "consists of the savoury tapas-dishes". Ten, in fact, starting with "Thaw 2005". The preparation of this includes making an infusion of green pine cones, then freezing it in your Pacojet, a machine that creates frozen powders. You will also need to freeze pine nuts in liquid nitrogen, make two different meringues (liquorice and pine cone), a slice of caramel and several other mind-boggling components, before arranging them on a plate in specific locations (Adria advises that you think of a clock face to help with this).I can't face even trying to comprehend the recipe for "Folie" saladTeaching apparatus, other than to say that, among its complicated sub-recipes and numerous obscure ingredients, it includes those spherical olives, cat's claw shoots (a creeper found in south America), pickled daisy buds and lecite, an emulsifier that is used to make foams ("tuna oil air" in this case).Act Three consists#x of desserts, such as peach liquid (crack open the liquid nitrogen again for this) and chocolate air with crispy raspberry sorbet, which involves the use of a freeze-dryer for 48 hours. And the final act? A passion fruit tree: first freeze-dry the passion fruit infusion you made earlier, then spin it into candy floss in your candy floss machine and serve on some twigs.To stay true to Adria's menu, you'll need to create another three desserts to consume before coffee, one of which – yoghurt and raspberry mochi – you won't be able to make anyway, because of a confidentiality agreement with the man who taughtTeaching apparatusthe chefs how to make the dough for the mochi, a Japanese rice cake. See, it's simple.相关的主题文章：
导入论坛
引用链接
收藏
分享给好友
推荐到圈子
管理
举报
TAG:
mold
